Working with Locks and Raw Fleece: From Sheep to Yarn

There's something deeply satisfying about starting with raw fleece—fiber exactly as it came from the sheep—and transforming it into beautiful yarn. Working with locks and raw fleece connects you to fiber's origins and gives you complete control over every step of the process. Here's how to work with fleece from selection through spinning.

Understanding Fleece Structure

A fleece isn't uniform—different parts have different qualities. The shoulder and sides produce the finest, softest fiber with the best crimp. The back is slightly coarser but still excellent quality. The neck can be shorter and more crimpy. Belly wool is often shorter and coarser, while leg wool (britch) is the coarsest and typically used for felting or rugs.

When buying a whole fleece, you're getting all these parts. When buying locks, you're typically getting selected portions—often the best parts of the fleece. Understanding fleece geography helps you use each section appropriately.

Selecting Quality Fleece

Look for fleece with good crimp (the natural wave in the fiber), consistent staple length (the length of individual locks), minimal vegetable matter (VM) like hay and burrs, and a pleasant smell. Avoid fleece that's heavily felted, has excessive VM, smells strongly of urine or rot, or has very short or weak staples.

Handle the fleece before buying if possible. It should feel springy and alive, not matted or dead. The crimp should be consistent throughout each lock. If you're buying online, choose reputable sellers who accurately describe their fleeces.

Skirting: The First Step

Skirting removes the undesirable parts of the fleece—heavily soiled edges, very short or matted sections, and areas with excessive VM. Lay the fleece out on a skirting table or clean surface with the cut side down (the side that was against the sheep's skin).

Remove the edges and any obviously poor-quality sections. What remains should be the usable fiber—the parts worth washing and processing. Don't be too aggressive with skirting; some fiber that looks questionable may clean up beautifully.

Washing Raw Fleece

Raw fleece contains lanolin (sheep's natural oil), dirt, and sometimes vegetable matter. Washing removes these while preserving the fiber's integrity. The key is avoiding felting—never agitate the fleece or subject it to temperature shock.

Fill a basin or tub with very hot water (as hot as your hands can stand) and add fiber-safe detergent or dish soap. Submerge the fleece gently and let it soak for 15-20 minutes without disturbing it. Lift it out carefully, drain the water, and repeat with fresh hot water until the water runs clear—typically 2-4 washes.

For the final rinse, use water the same temperature as your last wash to avoid shocking the fiber. Gently squeeze out excess water (never wring), and lay the fleece flat to dry on towels or a drying rack. Good air circulation speeds drying and prevents mildew.

Spinning Directly from Locks

One of the joys of working with locks is spinning them directly without further processing. This preserves the lock's natural crimp and character, creating yarn with beautiful texture and loft.

To spin from locks, hold the cut end (the end that was against the sheep's skin) and draft from the tip end. The fibers naturally want to draft in this direction. You can spin locks using short draw for more control or long draw for airier, more textured yarn.

Spinning from locks creates yarn with character—it won't be perfectly smooth like yarn spun from combed top, but it will have personality and warmth that reflects the sheep it came from.

Processing Locks: Carding

If you want more uniform fiber, card your washed locks using hand cards or a drum carder. Carding aligns the fibers somewhat while maintaining the woolen preparation that creates lofty, warm yarn.

Flick the tips of your locks first with a flick carder to open them up, then card them into rolags (hand cards) or batts (drum carder). This preparation spins easily and creates classic woolen yarn—the kind that's been spun for centuries.

Processing Locks: Combing

For smooth, worsted-style yarn, comb your locks using wool combs. This aligns all the fibers parallel and removes shorter fibers (noils), creating top that spins into smooth, strong, lustrous yarn.

Combing is more work than carding but produces distinctly different yarn. It's worth learning both techniques so you can choose the preparation that suits your project.

Choosing Breeds for Lock Spinning

Some breeds are particularly wonderful for lock spinning. Wensleydale and Teeswater have long, lustrous locks with beautiful curl—stunning when spun to preserve their character. Leicester Longwool has similar qualities with a slightly different crimp pattern. Shetland offers variety—fine, soft locks in gorgeous natural colors.

Merino locks are shorter and finer, creating soft, crimpy yarn. Romney locks are versatile and forgiving—excellent for learning. Each breed offers unique characteristics worth exploring.

The Rewards of Fleece Work

Working with raw fleece is more time-consuming than buying prepared fiber, but the rewards are substantial. You control every step of the process, ensuring quality and cleanliness. You connect with fiber's origins in a tangible way. You often save money—raw fleece costs less per pound than prepared fiber. And you gain deep knowledge about fiber that makes you a better, more informed spinner.

Start with a small amount—a few ounces of locks or a quarter of a fleece—to learn the process without overwhelming yourself. As you gain confidence, you might find yourself seeking out whole fleeces and building relationships with shepherds, becoming part of the fiber community from sheep to yarn.